April 30 Wednesday - Yea Though I Walk Through The Valley of Vineyards

April 30 Wednesday - Yea Though I Walk Through The Valley of Vineyards

Today was six and one half hours of walking on flat rocky roads through endless vineyards. The sun was out, the sky was blue. I have completed 203 km of the 1000 km (124 miles.) So I am one fifth of the way through.  I did meet a nice young man from Barcelona named Marcel. We had a chat by the side of the road. Marcel took a picture of another friend and I. The friend was the German guy who came into the room a few days ago announcing he had just walked forty kilometers, and I asked, "Why?"  Anyway his name is Kurt and he has the goofiest smile, it just make me smile. 

After a boring walk all day, the end was a little exciting. On the way into Torremeijas, a yellow arrow directed me through this pass under the railroad tracks. The trail then ended in a pond of water. There are no arrows, no directions. On either side of the pond of water were muddy sloped leading back up to ground level with the railroad tracks, but there's this body of water and a gully going up the middle. Which way do I go? The left side looked like it would be easier to climb, but the right side looked more used. I know there's a dirt trail going into the village at the top, but I don't want to get up and have the gully between me and the trail. So I choose the right side and go up a very steep mudbank. It's like deja vu all over again. I get to the top and there's no dirt trail, just a path through a jungle of vegetation above my head and prickly plants. So what do you do other than proceed ahead. At this point I can at times see that the gulley is to my left and some farmer's field is to my right.  Luckily I chose the right mudbank to climb, because eventually I came out of the vegetation and there was the trail, and it was on the same side of the gully as I. I must admit that was the most bizarre part of any Camino I've ever seen. 

I got into town and found the albergue, but the door is closed and locked. I'm thinking that possibly another albergue has closed. The sign on the the door that says to ring the doorbell next door. I do that an no one answers. There's a phone number on the door so I start to get out my phone to call the number. About this time this very strange looking dog comes down the street and starts barking at me. He's lose, not fenced not chained, not on a leash. I stamp my foot at him and say ¡Basta! Very sternly. I didn't say, Stop It very sternly because I was pretty sure he didn't understand English. Then a woman comes out from behind a car with a little dog on a leash and calls the other dog over. I'm thinking, "Oh great, now this woman probably thinks I'm harassing her dog,". But, no, she comes over see why standing in front of this door and to help me. She suggests that I knock on the door and if that doesn't work, call the number. So I pound on the door a few times and Oliver, an Irish guy on the Camino lets me in and tells me the guy in charge will be back in a few minutes. He did come back. He reminds me of Mozzie on the television show, White Collar. I get a bed with sheets and blankets. I take a shower wash a few things, and take a nap.

I had dinner tonight with Oliver and a French man at the restaurant owned by the people that own the albergue. I will have breakfast there tomorrow morning. Dinner was good. I had ensalada mixta with the balsamic vinegar I brought along and baked pork with french fries with yogurt for dessert. 

I forgot to mention a couple of things from yesterday. As I was walking this car came down the dirt road I was on and then I noticed a dog was chasing the car. I was afraid that when the car passed me he would decide to chase me. But he just kept running with the car. Then the car stopped and the man said something to the dog and the dog ran around in circles like he's saying he's not done yet. I think this is just the way this man takes his dog out for a run. So off they went again. 

Then as was walking on this dirt path into Villafranca this cute little old man comes riding up on a motor scooter with a basket the back full of all kinds of stuff. He stops his scooter, and I'm thinking, "why's he stopping, I'm not lost and I don't think I look lost." It turns out he just stopped to chat. He wanted to know if I was walking to Santiago, where I was from and stuff. 

Well enough for tonight. Write a comment if you get a chance. Tomorrow I'm off to Mérida. 

April 29 Tuesday - When You Wish Upon A Bunk Bed

April 29 Tuesday - When You Wish Upon A Bunk Bed

So at the very end of my last post I said there was little opportunity to have a conversation in English in my current stage of the Via de la Plata because there are no native speakers or people who are fluent. So, I had been walking about two hours this morning enjoying the fresh air and scenery and a man approaches me from the opposite direction, says hello, and starts walking with me. He doesn't have a back pack, so he's not a pilgrim. But he starts talking and walking. He says he walks this way every morning and meets pilgrims and walks with them. He's originally from London, but has lived in Spain for 23 years. He is married to a Spanish woman and they live in the village we are walking toward. 

His name is John, just like my hubby. And he is a conspiracy theorist, just like, well, my hubby. He was telling me his theories about 9/11 and the third building. I thought he meant the Pentagon, but no, he meant a third building near the Twin Towers.He doesn't think the planes brought the towers down. It started sounding all Grassy Knoll to me. He walked with me for about an hour or more. We talked about many things including kids and Grandkids. 

John, the English guy, not my hubby was also telling me there had been a plan to put an oil refinery on these beautiful hills near his village. The plan was to carry the crude oil 200 km through a pipe line and then send the refined oil back through another pipeline. The water they used to wash or process the crude oil would be dumped in a river that joined another river that flows into Portugal and empties in the ocean off the Portugese. Coast. Apparently Portugal wasn't too thrilled with this plan. Imagine. Anyway John and the other locals fought for eight years and defeated the project. This explained all the "Refinerías No" signs I saw along the route. 

After he left me, I thought WOW last night I'm talking about needing or wanting a little conversation in English and plop out of the middle of really no where, here is this guy this morning. Boy that was amazing. 

I also started thinking about his theories. I thought about how horribly scary it would be if he were right. Them I realized it wouldn't surprise me if some power group within the US perpetrated this horrendous act. I think I've been watching too much TV, programs like Person of Interest or I've been listening to John too long. lol. I decided I did not want to spend my Camino thinking about such stuff. This is why I don't watch or read the so called news. If the powers that be call me up and ask me what they should do, I'll study up, but the odds if that happening are too great to calculate. 

So back to the Camino. I walked the rest of the way into Villafranca de Los Barros which felt further but was actually closer than I thought it was. This part of the Camino is not as breathtakingly beautiful as the first part, but a lot of that was through Parque Natural or other open space. This part has a little more industry. I found the Albergue El Carmen and got a bed, a lower bunk. It's a nice small homey place. I took a shower and did my laundry. 

I am feeling less tired in the evening, but it still hard to get it together to go out at 8pm to eat. So I went to the store to get some food for dinner. Now we will see if I can get it together to cook something. lol

Good news I managed to cook it. So far nobody in this group is making communal meals. I even offered my left overs to everyone and had no takers. They were all going out for the Pilgrim's meal. Oh well. I would go for the Pilgrim's meal or any meal if I could het into to town in time for the midday meal or stay up late enough for the evening meal. At this point if I went out to eat at 8:00 or 8:30pm, they would find me face down in my pasta snoring and inhaling noodles in the process. While I was eating my dinner, an Irish man and the Austrian woman were sitting at the table comparing their guide books and trying to plan the rest of the Camino all the way to Santiago. I was speechless. I'm just hoping to make it to the next town tomorrow. 

Well good night all. 

April 28 Monday - Daily Drama and Little Surprises

April 28 Monday - Daily Drama and Little Surprises

The day was clear skies and sunny. I was in short sleeves within a half hour of leaving the Albergue this morning. I didn't even get lost, because those two kind gents showed me the way out yesterday. :) it was warm all day very pleasant and I started out with a spring in my step. I think I'm finally getting stronger. Today's 13 miles were easier than yesterday's thirteen miles. 

However, imagine my chagrin Fuente de Cantos and Pueblo de Sancho Peréz there was a river running across the middle of the path. There were rocks placed to walk on , but they were all submerged deep under the water. I thought, "What does one do?" While pondering this question I saw a path through high, old cornstalks and other vegetation. So I followed it and found rocks across the water leading to a mud embankment about three feet high. I thought, "What the heck, in for a penny in for a pound. So I started across the rocks. Now walking across rocks in the water is difficult for anyone, it is scary for someone nicknamed "Tilty." I have peripheral neuropathy, something nerves not sending messages fast enough, like I don't have enough ram or bars on my wifi. This causes me to veer off course or in some situations to topple. Not good for trying to balance on rocks over water. 

But, with the help of my trusty poles I made it across the rocks to the mud embankment. I tried to put my foot up, to step up the embankment, but realized it was too high, and with the pack on, an attempt would probably result in me tipping over backwards, landing on my back on my pack on the rocks and in the water flopping about like a turned over turtle. So, I decided this was going to be a knee up pull myself up onto my stomach maneuver. I got up and then I wasn't sure if I could get to my feet with my pack on this small slippery mud bank. Or should I take the pack off and run the risk of it falling in the water. I didn't think it would be as dramatic as the scene in the movie The Way where Martin Sheen's pack falls into a fast moving deep river. I did know if I got off balance with the pack on, both I and the pack could get wet, or worse, I could get injured. I tried it with the pack on and did get up without major mishap. There were some tense moments when I started to go off balance, my poles saved the day. 

Once I was up I realized I was only half way around the water and the part in front of me was even deeper. So I walked again through the tall vegetation only to find out, after sinking ankle deep in mud a couple of times, that trail went no where. So I started back pondering whether I wanted to walk in the water barefoot or leave my boots on and walk the rest of the way in soggy boots. I hadn't decided when I got back to the mud bank. I got closer to try and see how deep the water was and I saw some rocks and a log. I was grateful and once more did the tightrope walk across the rocks. One was a little tippy and I almost went flying, but I stepped quickly, instinctively to to next rock and it steady. 

It was scary and tense but I was glad that I survived with only muddy and slightly wet boots. I was not pleased to have to go through the same drama about two miles further on. This is probably one of the things I wouldn't encounter in the early summer. But I also wouldn't get to see the waving wheat along the trail. 

Further on I encountered the first limping pilgrim on this Camino. I hadn't seen the man before, so I was wondering if he started behind me. I hope he made it to the pueblo and was able to tend to his hurts. I started running out of water early, so I had to ration it for the last two hours. I got into Pueblo de Sancho Peréz and started following the signs to the albergue. After I walked about a half a mile I thought something was wrong and I was going in the wrong direction. So I walked back to the center of town. I couldn't find any yellow arrows or the tourist office. So again I saw the City Hall. I went in and ask a man, working at his desk, if he knew where the albergue was and he said it was closed and that I would have to go on to Zafra, about two and a half miles further. Doable, but not desirable. He started doing something at has computer and the asked one of the women to call. Turns out the albergue is not closed. So I walk about a half a mile back in the direction I came from. But if I hadn't stopped and been told it was there, I never would have found it. 

As I walked, I felt like I was walking out of town, because I was. The albergue is in a Ermitas, which I guess is like a chapel translated from Spanish. I think it's a place pray, not where services are performed. I arrived and there was no on around and no signs saying albergue or anything. But just then a woman drove up, got out of her car and greeted me, as if she was expecting me. Which she was, because of the phone call from City Hall. It turns out there are no other pilgrims staying this albergue, which isn't surprising given it's location and the lack of a Hospitalero during the hours most pilgrims arrive, The hospitalera is at lunch until 4pm. It's Spain. So this hospitalera has driven over from Zafra to sign me in. However, she doesn't think it is best for me to stay there and suggests that she drive me over to Zafra to their sister albergue. I agree with this plan. We chat in Spanish on the way. I think I'm getting better. 

She brings me to the albergue in Zafra which is in an old convent. It is very nice. I'm in a room with a Austrian woman who speaks no English. In fact there no English speaking on the part I'm on right now. There aren't any who even speak it as a second language. I knew I would be alone during the day, because I want to walk alone. But I was hoping to meet people in the albergues at the end of the day. I guess I'm supposed to have some alone time. Pekka and Paul are the only two I've met who speak English fluently. Paul was on a bicycle, so I only saw him one day. I haven't see Pekka for a few days. I think he did two stages in one day and is ahead of me now. I'm sure I will run into some more English speakers. I have spoken a little to some Spanish speaking people. 

I took my shower, washed my laundry, ate some cheese and drank some water. Now I thinking of sleep. Please write some comments if you have a moment. 

April 27 Sunday Wandering

April 26 Sunday 

This morning started ouT with a jolt. The German man in the bed next to mine had his alarm set for 6am and it went off loudly. It startled me out of a sound sleep. I gave up noisy alarms many years ago and got a zen alarm that just goes "ding."if you don't turn it off it does that again after ten minutes, again after eight and so on. I sways wake up on the first ding. So this loud noise startled me. I guess it startled him to, because he banged around on the chair it was sitting on and knocked on the floor and then made a whole lot of ruckus trying to find it on the floor. I finally turned my phone on so he would have some light to see it. 

Well after all of that I was awake. I usually can't go back to sleep once I wake up. The killer is HE did go back to sleep for another hour and a half. I resisted the urge to strangle him, or at least continue to wake him up until he couldn't go to sleep again. I didn't do this out of kindness, compassion or goodness of spirit. I wanted to give him a good whacking, but there were other people in the room and I didn't want his screams to wake them up. The guy had snored all night too, which I got to sleep and slept through. So I was not little miss sunshine this morning. 

But then, I had corn flakes for breakfast! They had them on the breakfast set up. I also had tostada con mermelada. They only had instant coffee, you can't have everything. I also had a pleasant chat with Paul at breakfast. He's going to try and get to Zafra today so he can see a doctor about his knee tomorrow. 

After breakfast I packed up and headed out. I was one of the last ones out of the albergue. I headed out according to the map, but at one point I stooped to ponder which way to go. I had barely stopped and a man walking two dogs starting waving his hands indicating a direction. I actually remembered to take my head phones off so I could hear him. And he said siga derecho al fin y luego gorse a la izquierda ( go straight to the end and turn left.) when I put my headphones back on and the Lucinda Williams was singing, did an angel whisper in your ear?" I thought, "No, but a Spanish man with two dogs waived his hands and shouted directions." Almost the same thing, right?

As I reached the place to turn left I sucked on my water and nothing happened. I'm like damn. My back pack didn't feel wet, so I didn't think it leaked two liters of water out. So I take off the pack, haul most of the stuff out and find out that after filled it I didn't connect the tube, that carries the water to my mouth, tight enough. So by now it is 9am and I head off for the day. 

I won't bore you with the astonishing beauty of the grasses, oaks and wild flowers, same old stuff. lol That was all still there, and the animals. I guess today was about tiredness. I think I'm at that stage where you are dog tired, but not yet to the point where your endurance starts to increase. The point at which you just have to keep putting one foot in front of the other. I sat down after a few hours and drank a box of juice I had left over from breakfast. I didn't want to get up again, but I thought it might get a bit chilly sleeping the night there. It was a day without highways or even roads, I was on trails the whole day. And at times I would look around and not only were there no other human beings, there was no evidence that any people lived or passed through here, other than the old road/trail I was walking on. 

At one point the trail dead ended into another road/trail. There was no yellow arrow, no sign, no rocks, nothing. So I go right and hike up the trail for a while. I notice there are no boot prints on the trail and I just get a feeling this is not the right way. There is nobody around anywhere. So I take out phone to see if there is a signal so I can see if google maps can help me. Many times between pueblos I don't have a signal. But luck is with me. So I punch in the name of the pueblo I headed to and, much to my surprise, google maps knows where the pueblo is and where I am. If I'm reading it right, I'm going the wrong way. So I turn around and start going the other way. I'm still not sure I was reading google maps correctly. Uncertainty. Then as if in a fairy tale, down the trail coming towards me is a beautiful chestnut horse with a very good looking man, I mean a hunk, riding the horse. The horse is regal and the man aristocratic looking. If this were a fairy tale he would be the Prince. On this day, he was my knight in shining armor, because I asked him if I was going the right way, and he said I was and that Fuente de Cantos is about ten kilometers away. And he rode off. Be still my heart. :) I was much relieved to know I was going the right way. So I continued wandering. 

Note to Stephanie: I am wearing the necklace you gave me that has one of my favorite sayings, "All who wander are not lost."  But I think maybe I should take it off because I'm giving those who wander a bad name, getting lost all the time. Hehehe

Now Fuente de Cantos is one of those pueblos you can see for along time before you get to it. In this case I saw it about an hour before I got to it.  That is very frustrating when you are very tired and just want to sit down and I need to pee. I'm no longer in an area where I can just squat, but at one point I consider if. So I finally get to town and follow the arrows to where I think the Municipal Albergue is and I find the building, but there is no albergue. I start wandering blindly trying to find some yellow arrows. It's Sunday in Spain. Everything is closed. Nobody is walking around going to or from the store or farmacía. I finally see a guy and ask him about the Municipal Albergue and he tells me it is closed. So I ask him if there is another albergue and show him the page in my guide book. He tells me that not only is it Sunday, but it is a Feast day and so the whole pueblo is at a fiesta. Great! 

But from my book he gives me the directions to another place. Go past the farmacía, turn left and go to number 40. Muy bien. I turn around and go past the farmacía and turn left. I'm looking for number 40. The numbers increase very slowly. I finally get to twenty and think I'm halfway there. Then these two men coming down the street tell me I am going the wrong way. They start herding me back down the street telling me there is no place to stay on that street, everything is closed because there is a fiesta. They are speaking a form of Spanish I don't understand and they are clearly not understanding what I am saying, which is that I need a place to sleep tonight. They keep saying something about mañana, and I keep saying I need a place to sleep tonight. 

We finally get to the end of the town and they point out where the Camino continues to the next pueblo, which, by the way, is 13 miles away. There is noway I can walk another 13 miles. It's 3:30pm. It took me 6.5 hours to do the last 13 miles and I'm beat. Even if I did it in the same amount of time which would happen, I wouldn't be in until 10pm. I thank them and tell them I need a place for this night in this pueblo. They don't know any thing about that. 

So I walk back through town ready to cry, wondering what it would be like to sleep on a door step or park bench sober. I don't even know where the center is, where I might find a hotel or a taxi to take me to the next town. As I walking a car pulls up and asks me if I am looking for an albergue. I say yes. He has a bunch of flyers on the passenger's seat. I say yes and he says just go past the farmacía and turn left on Calle de Llorena and go to number 40. Does that sound familiar? It should, it's where I was headed before. He drives off and come back. He asks if I want a ride. I almost jump for joy. It turns out he and/or his son own/run this place. It is very nice. I have a regular bed that is not a bunk bed for 12€. I would have taken anything for any price. It has a patio with a fountain, a swimming pool (little cold for that right now) a kitchen and even a bar restaurante that will be open for breakfast tomorrow. There is a fridge with soda, wine, beer, and juice to buy on the honor system. The place looks like it used to be an old two story Spanish house. The kind with the patio on the inside and living quarters around the patio. They are restoring it and I am in a room that still in the process of being restored. But I have shelter and the owner point me to the one bar in town that is open. I go in and order a jamon y queso bocadilla and a café con leche. I have shelter, I have a full stomach. I got some ice for my knee.  Life is good. 

I'm sharing my room with a German guy who came into the room stating he did 40 meters today. I think they want you to me impressed. I gave my usual response, "Why?" He looked at me puzzled. I asked, "Are you in a hurry?" There may be time constraints. He doesn't speak enough English to understand the question. Oh well. 

Hope you all had a great day. 

April 26 Saturday - El Real de la Jara to Monesterío Magic Moments

I got up this morning and had some café and tostada. Yummy. So, fueled up, I left El Real de la Jara for Monesterio, about a 13 mile trek. I left the town and almost immediately I was faced with visual delights. As I was leaving the pueblo, I looked back and took a picture of the pueblo in the morning light. There was a grassy field between me and the village. When I finished taking the picture I looked up and there was a beautiful ebony horse running and frolicking in the field. I checked the camera to see if the horse was in the picture. It was, but very small.   

The next thing I saw was the ruins of an old castle, in a field of soft green grass and wild flowers. On top on one of it's remaining turrets was a stork standing guard. It was great. 

Then there were some sheep and lambs. I was thinking about my use of the terms "baby lambs" yesterday and considering whether it was double statement. But what I meant was lambs shortly after they've come into this world and like foals, calves, fawns; that are all gangly and uncoordinated. They have trouble getting their legs to all go in the same direction. Later, very shortly later, they are still lambs, but then they are like little sheep. I saw some of those today. They were bigger than the baby lambs. 

At one point, as I was coming up to pass a house there were dogs barking, but they were all chained. Then I saw this big thing in the road. I thought someone had left their pack in the road. I couldn't figure out where they had gone. Then as I got closer I realized it wasn't a backpack. Then I thought maybe it was a rock. But it was such a funny place for a rock, like right in the middle of the road, where cars and people would have to circumnavigate it. Then it started to move and I thought I was hallucinating. But then I realized it was a dog, a very big dog. It slowly rose and then lumbered over to me. I just kept walking. He didn't like he was going to attack me, he was just sort of ushering on through, making sure I didn't bother anything. He even got behind me and nudged my pack. Too funny. 

Then I was treated to a serenade of the dull clanging bells on the necks of sheep. They aren't loudly, harshly clanging bells, just a soft gentle sound. It was really relaxing and calming. Until I saw a very large black bull or cow coming down the road toward me. I don't know if it was a cow or a bull I had other things on my mind, like whether I had anything red on me or my pack. All I knew was it was much bigger than me than me by about a ton, and had very sharp pointy things on it's head. Fortunately he seemed to want to stay clear of me as he passed, he slowly moved to the far side of the road. Whew!

The trek was very quiet and lovely. I saw some lambs and sheep, kids and goats, and calves and cows. It must be Spring. I walked through meadows. Then suddenly that ended and I was walking along a highway and coming up to a Rondo (traffic circle.) I thought, "oh dear." Then I saw a Guardian Civil car and two officers. Then I saw a big roadside stop with cars and buses and A CAFETERIA! I get to have lunch. I asked the Officers if I could pass over the rondo on foot and they said I could. I was so excited! I was planning to stop by the side of the trail and suck Justin's Natural Peanut Butter out of packet and suck some water to wash it down. But no, I got to go inside, sit down, eat a bocadilla, and drink some cafê con leche. It was great! 

After I ate, I had to find the yellow arrows again and traverse the rondo. At one point I thought the yellow arrows were going to lead me onto the freeway. I thought I did that last year and ended up in a Civil Guardia car being taken back to the Camino. I didn't want to repeat that adventure. But the arrows pointed to the highway which ran parallel to the freeway. So I walked on the side of a highway, which I guess you are allowed to do, until the yellow arrows took me off the road to a nice trail with huge trees that ran between the highway and the freeway. Then the path kind of ended and I was faced with walking across a steeply sloped area of loose gravel or walk on the side of the highway. So I'm thinking risk sliding down this sharp scree into a barbed wire fence or risk getting smushed by a car or big truck. Hmm. I chose the scree and barbed wire. I figured the bodily damaged wouldn't likely be fatal or cause permanent injury. 

I made it successfully, if not gracefully. I ended up on a semi paved side road after talking to a Spanish guy on a bike. We commiserated about our knees. His hurts and he doesn't know if he will be able to go much further. Bummer. 

As I walked on this road I saw a herd of goats coming down the road towards. There must have been a hundred of them. I though this must be rush hour on the Via de la Plata. I just stood by the side of the rode thoroughly enjoying their passing. I exchanged greetings with the herder. As soon as they passed, the road was covered with sheep. Right place, right time. 

What followed was a 200 meter climb to Monesterio. It wasn't as steep as the other one, but it wasn't easy. I arrived in Monesterio and saw signs for the Municipal Albergue. I followed the signs. They led me around or turn after another in a winding route until I was about to give up. Then I met another pilgrim on the corner and he seemed to know, from my confused land discouraged look, what I was looking for. He said it's right around the corner. I'm glad he was there because this is a really nice albergue. They have a washer and dryer, so I got my clothes clean. I've basically been wearing the same clothes for three days because, if I wash them, I can't get them dry. It's too cold and cloudy. 

And the guy in the bunk next to me is the young man on the bike with the sore knee I ran into earlier in the day. He's from the Czech Republic and speaks English and Spanish. His name is Paul, though it doesn't sound like Paul when he says it in Czech. I lent him some of my Voltarén to see if it helps his knee. I am the only woman sleeping in a room full of men. There's one other German woman, but she's in another room. I need to learn her name because I see her and the man she walks with, Miguel every day. 

There's big black clouds in the sky. It is not supposed to rain tomorrow, but we'll see. 

April 25 Friday Expectations

Expectations

Somehow, someway I was operating on the assumption that the Via de la Plata was relatively flat, that it ran through a valley, and at this time of year it would be pretty war because in the summer it is scorching hot. Not true, none of it. I don't know where I got any of those ideas. I think maybe I made them up. lol I said these things to people who had done the Via Plata and none of them disabused me of my fantasies. 

It is not flat. Today we climbed another mountain. It is not warm. In the middle of the day when the sun is shining and your are climbing a mountain it is warm. But, even there, a cold breeze comes through about every ten minutes. Mornings until ten and afternoons after three are cold. Nights we won't even talk about. Luckily there are blankets or I would be Sleepless in Spain a very non romantic movie. And as far as I can tell there are no valleys involved. It's a very good thing I had a café con leche y tostada con mantequilla y mermelada for breakfast at 7:30am or I I think I would have run out of steam. I ran into my Finnish friend at breakfast and asked his name. It is Pekka. I had to have him spell, because, well you know. lol

Even though it is not flat there are fields upon fields of white rock roses, rosemary, thyme, several varieties of purple flowers, little yellow daisies, and other things I can't identify. These all lay under groves of scrub oak with twisting personalities under skies so blue it hurts. The fields look like soft carpets and many a time I was tempted to just walk into them and lay down. I would probably still be out there sleeping, until the dark and the cold came. We were still walking through the Parque Natural Sierra Norte. It must be a very large park. We are only in one little edge of it and have been for two days. Such a precious resource and preserve. 

Today I also saw brown pigs, sheep with their lambs, goats with interesting horns, and cows. The goats weren't even in a pen or behind a fence. There were birds, hundreds of birds singing the whole way, with occasional percussion noises from frogs and insects. I passed a pond with ripples in it and went for a closer look. It was hundreds of tadpoles all over the pond. There are going to be a lot of frogs soon. 

While I was walking I was really enjoying the scenery, but the walking was hard. I thought it would be nice if my eyeballs could just travel through the air and see everything. Then I thought that if that were possible I would miss all the charming sounds. So ok, maybe my eyes and ears could travel through the air together. Then I thought I would miss the feel of the sun and crisp breezes on my skin. Ok, so maybe I wish my ears and eyes and skin could float through the air. Then I realized that I was almost wishing I was a ghost! Yikes!! I changed channels quickly, grateful to feel the tiredness of my body. 

I didn't get a shower yesterday because there was no hot water in the Municipal Albergue in Almedén de la Plata. So today I made sure to ask if they had hot water and blankets at the Municipal Albergue before I decided to stay there  They did. I had a glorious long, hot shower. There are only two of us staying in the albergue which has room for 32. I have a room with two bunk beds to myself. I could have a party. From the porch I can see the huge castle on the hill. I could go visit it, but I have no energy to climb the hill. They would probably find me in the morning lying face down in the dirt where I fell over. 

I am currently in El Real de la Jara. I didn't get around to eating until 3:30, only to find out the only two restaurants in town were closed until 7:45. I was starving because they don't serve food until 7:30 pm. I thought I was going to start chewing on my arm. On the Camino Frances they cater to the eating habits of the rest of the world. Not here, not in these villages. There are also way fewer restaurants or bars that serve food in these pueblos. So I am going to need to change my habits. I did finally get to eat, inhale would probably be a better description. It was yummy, I think. I ate it so fast, who knows. :)

I didn't get a shower yesterday because there was no hot water in the Municipal Albergue in Almedén de la Plata. So today I made sure to ask if they had hot water and blankets at the Municipal Albergue before I decided to stay there  They did. I had a glorious long, hot shower. There are only two of us staying in the albergue which has room for 32. I have a room with two bunk beds to myself. I could have a party. From the porch I can see the huge castle on the hill. I could go visit it, but I have no energy to climb the hill. They would probably find me in the morning lying face down in the dirt, where I fell over too exhausted to move. 

So now I'm tucked in a nice warm bed getting ready for sleep. I hope I wake up to lots of messages from you and a Dodger win!  

April 24 Thursday How Do You Eat An Elephant?

April 24 Thursday How Do You Eat An Elephant?

Not that I eat elephants. It has never occurred to me to eat an elephant. It seems to me this first problem would be finding a pot big enough to cook it in. But I digress, the mind wanders. The standard answer is, "one bite at a time." This were the thoughts that went through my mind as I was faced with a 200 meter (700 foot) climb today. Well to be perfectly honest. There were other thoughts consisting mostly of expletives. The made the Pyrenees look like a slight grade. The hike to O'Cebreiro pales by comparison. And not only was it steep, it was rocky with lots of loose dirt and pebbles. 

This morning in the taxi when we passed the people walking by the side of the road I was really happy with my decision. When I looked at this climb, which would have been at the end of an 18 mile walk, I thanked God for his intervention. As it was I I had already walked 7 or 8 miles by the time I came to this "elephant." I had walked about eight miles. I wasn't exhausted, but I was tired. I can't imagine coming to it after 18 miles. I think I would have just sat down and wept. Not that there would have been any witnesses. I only saw two people today. I just said to myself "put one foot in front of the other, one step at a time." Well that was after I said to myself, "you silly woman, what were you thinking?" I did what I've done many times over the years when training or retraining my body to walk or run distances. I just set a goal, like make it to that tree and then rest." It worked. 

I got to the top and looked back at a magnificent view. It was like being on top of the world. I saw a woman I shared the taxi with. And then after a while a man came along and we took each other's pictures. Then as I was listening to one of my favorite Joan Baez songs, dating myself here, God Is God, I looked in front of me at a 200 meter downhill. Uphill is hard, but for me downhill is worse on my body. It doesn't work well for Tilty people either. I was thinking, "First up, then down; why not just blast a trail through the damn mountain." Before my hubby and all my environmental compatriots get their hackles up, I know why not. My mind was just kidding, sort of. 

After my face plant on a similarly steep downhill two years ago, I was picking my way down this very carefully. At one point I saw something out of my peripheral vision. It was a guy with a pack, without poles almost running down this slope. We both said, "Buen Camino!" After he passed, my bratty voice said, "show off." A short while later a woman comes by with a pack and no poles at about the same speed. Humbled, I continued my snail's pace. 

I did enjoy the early walk today. After the highway the Camino goes into and through a large open space, Parque Natural Sierra Norte. It was breathtaking. I'm so grateful I had the time to walk slowly and absorb the beauty. I took pictures and just enjoyed the ramble. There were so many flowers I had never seen before. Glorious combinations of purple, white and gold. Words fail me. Then there were some spectacular ruins and an old white building in a field of green. In the morning it was over cast, then it started to rain a little, then the clouds cleared and the sun came out. So all of the colors changed hue and saturation during the whole morning. There was also some great cloud art to treat the eyes. It was delightful. 

At one point I stopped to pee and as I was squatting I saw this strange brown shape I thought was a rock, but it was shiny and there were no other rocks around like it. I was going to move it with my stick, turn it over to get a better look. Something made me pause, and I'm so glad it did because then I noticed several little brown things with feelers crawling along. Apparently, they were slugs of some kind. They didn't have shells like snails. Shortly after this I saw this great red and black hard shelled bug burrowing into the earth. 

Last night I thought I was going to freeze to death. I only have a fleece sleep sac. This has been quite sufficient on two Camino Frances in summer and fall. But this is April and to my surprise, we are in the mountains. I don't know where I thought I was going, but I was thinking valley, or desert floor. I put on practically every stitch of clothing I had as I laid there most of the night awake thinking I need to find a sleeping bag soon. On the Frances they have blankets, but for some reason I didn't think they had them on this Camino. I thought until I can buy a sleeping bag, maybe I can fill my water bladder with warm or hot water at night and use it like a hot water bottle.  When I came downstairs there were two blankets sitting on a chair, the same chair I sat on when I checked in yesterday. Duh! So today when I came to the albergue I asked if they had mantas.(blankets.) they did and I snuggled under one for a nap.  

After my nap I went and had a big meal of pasta, pork chops, the ubiquitous french fries, natiilla (custard with a cookie on top-homemade, water, and café con leche. Then I walked around for a while and met my Finnish friend when I went to the market to get Kleenex and water. He hadn't eaten, so I kept him company while he ate. He has a wife, four children and one grandchild. But, I don't know his name. It's funny that way on the Camino. 

When I got back to the albergue a whole herd of children had arrived. When they aren't making noise, the father is by talking to them in a very loud voice. It' time to remember the Buddhist monks and the begging bowls, accept what the universe provides. Well it's bed time. I hope it quiets down in the next hour or two. 

April 23 The Body Threatens To Revolt

Before I start the blog, I have bee told that I am no receiving your comment. Blogspot changed something and apparently it is not working I can't even check into it until I get to a real computer. So if you want to comment, and I would love to read them; you can email them to me at nancy7484@gmail.com

April 23 The Body Threatens To Revolt

Today the body suddenly stopped and said, "WHOA!! Not this again! What do you think you are doing? Can we put this to a vote. Don't you realize how old we muscles and tendons are? We each should get a vote." Then the toes piped in with, hey what about us we have to keep you balanced on all those rocky trails and that makes the job. Not to mention our nails get banged around, play dead and jump ship. We get a vote too." So the body is in full mutiny. The knee and the back are quiet. Al they said is, "we hurt all the time anyway, so who cares?" I tell them what I tell them every year, that it's only the first few days that are difficult and then we all feel better and enjoy the journey." They don't seem to believe me. What short memories they have.  

Today started out like any other day, I got lost several times before getting out of the pueblo that is about three blocks wide and five blocks long. Doesn't sound like it would be that hard to find your way out. In my defense, the arrows in this pueblo and Camas are really poorly done. There must be some political pressure about where they can and cannot place the arrows. This must happen a lot because the residents were very helpful. Every time they saw me going the wrong way or just stand looking incredibly dumb. The would start waving their arms to indicate where I should go and giving verbal instructions, which I probably could have understood had I heard them, but I kept forgetting to take my ear plugs out. They would waive their arms indicating "go straight" and they were probably saying "derecho y luego a la derecha" having not heard them I would yell back, "derecho y luego a la derecha?" They must have thought I was hard of hearing or very stupid or both. But they were very nice and helpful, like you would be with someone who is mentally challenged. 

So I got out of the pueblo and found that the Camino was along the highway. This was not like a senda or separate walking trail running along side the highway. This was walking on the thin strip of asphalt left over after they measure and line the lanes, varying in width from three to ten inches wide. They traffic was moving at a fairly good clip, including cars and trucks and some big rigs. There was traffic coming the other way on this two lane highway, so they were often faced with the choice, hit the stupid woman walking on the road or hit another car or truck. I don't want to know what their answer was. I got stopped last year by the policia  for doing something a whole lot less dangerous, walking beside a freeway on a stretch of dirt about six feet wide. Today I thought where are the policia when you need them. I would love a ride out of here.

I was so deep in thought trying not to get smushed that I almost missed my turn. But two kind men, one from the gas station and one from some sort of industrial enterprise across the street started waiving their arms. Since they were both waiving the same direction, I figured they knew the way, even though where they were directing me was to a road behind the gas station and several industrial buildings. It turns out that this road led to a trail that is part of an athletic area sponsored by four or five pueblos including the one I just left and the one I'm headed to. It included an amazing trail for hiking and off road biking. It was luscious with flowers, trees and plants; vistas beyond words! Sat down once to fix a blister and once to eat a granola bar for lunch. I saw bunny rabbits, long sleek ones scampering across fields. And in one area there were several pastures of huge brown and white cows. Though there was mud, some challenging areas of wash outs, and it seemed like most of it was uphill; it truly was a lovely hike. 

During the entire 12 mile journey today I saw seven pilgrims and a couple of recreational bikers. In this town there is only one albergue. It is donativo, which means you pay what you can. If you have very little money, then you don't pay. There are 28 beds here and only 12 pilgrims. It is a nice place, and the Hospitalero, Manolo, is terrific. He's really friendly and goes out of his way to be helpful. He's a volunteer through the Spanish organization that placed me in Bercianos last year. He has been a Hospitalero at Grañon and El Burgo Ranero also. He certainly has the knack for it. 

I was thinking all day how I would like to skip the first part of the walk tomorrow. The total walk is about 18 miles and the first 10 of it is on the highway. After the highway there is a hike through a National park and then a nasty 200 meter climb at the end. I don't like walking on the highway. There is little to see and it is scary. And I think an 8 mile hike with a nasty 200 meter climb is enough for anyone. All my body parts agree. I didn't say anything to anyone, I was just thinking, oh well, I'll just do it. Then when I came back from dinner, Manolo asked if I wanted to take a taxi for the first part. I said, "Sure, is that possible?" He introduced me to a German couple for whom he had already arranged the cab and they were looking for two more riders. I signed up. It is funny how things work like that. The only drawback is they are leaving at 7:30, so I won't be able to have café con leche and tostada con mermelada, as I had planned because the bar across the way doesn't open until 8. Oh well, you can't have everything. 

It was so nice to hear from so many of you yesterday. It really helps me more than you will ever know.   

The First Step Is Always The Hardest

April 22 the First Step Is Always The Hardest  Well I finally broke the suction between my bum and the bed in the Triana Backpackers hostel in Seville. It rained heavy and for some strange reason I couldn't force myself to leave the shelter. I think I've been reluctant to do this Camino. I don't know why, maybe more will be revealed. I had a great time at the hostel, met lots of great people from all over, including Lindsey and her mom Valerie from Touloose France, who were delightful company and shared their pasta with me last night. I met another mother daughter team from Barcelona who shared their food with me too. Feed me and I'll be your friend forever.   I left the hostel at about 8:30 this morning. Clear skies and sunshine, temperatures in the 70s. I was ready to start shedding clothes within an hour. I think I set a record, even for me, getting lost twice in the first three miles! lol. I only got lost twice in 500 miles last year. I am the Queen Mother of lost now. Anyway, this meant I only walked 3 miles in 3 hours. I did the next 11 miles in 4 hours. Quite a difference. The second time I got lost was in a town. I was ready to either lay down on the ground and kick my feet and pound the ground and hold my breath until I turned blue or cry. Lucky for me I was in front of the Ayudamente ( kind if like City Hall, I think) and the door was open, so I went in. They not only gave me directions they gave me two lovely pins that have the city seal on them and "Camino Via de la Plata- Seville - Camas." So as usual getting lost has it's little secret prizes. I still had a little trouble getting out of town, but a policeman and a street sweeper helped.   The next part of the walk was a slog through an industrial area and then along the side of a highway with no walking path. That part of the walk is in contention with the slog into Burgos as the most miserable Camino walk. But then suddenly, I looked up and in front of me was a dirt path border with juvenile wheat plants and wild flowers and a back drop of one of those beautiful dark cerulean blue sky with puffy white clouds. My heart was thrilled and grateful and I said "thank you" 

That went on for quite a while, but of course it can't last forever. I would take it for granted. So then we came to, what the guide book described as a stream. Because it had poured rain for three straight days, it looked to me like a river, granted a small river, but a river nonetheless. I'm thinking, "Where is Moses when you need him?"  So I go up river a little and find a place where some lovely pilgrim who preceded me had placed logs and branches in the water to help with the crossing. However, this branches could only be accessed and egressed by some very steep, muddy and slippery slopes. So what is the intrepid Pilgrim to do? Well after considering a couple of options, like returning to Seville and spending a month there or just sitting where I was for a while and waiting for the water to recede and the mud to dry, or for one of the tall tractors to come by.  I finally chose to try it. My biggest concern was falling in and getting wet, though that would have been darned uncomfortable. My biggest concern was slipping and twisting my ankle or breaking something. There aren't many pilgrims out there. But I have it a whirl. After slipping and sliding a bit I came to a place where the distance between the ground and the overhanging branches was so low I had to almost get in a full crouch to get through. Same thing on the upside. I had jus cleared the branches, when this really tall guy comes through going lickety split. I was in his way, so he found a way to the right of me. I asked him if there was still a purple bear in my pack, because I was afraid Mr Burple may have gotten knocked loose by the over hanging branches. Nothing, no "are you ok?,do you need help?, he just raced on away. To his back I mutter something about him being such a nice guy ( hehehe) and wondered if he was being chased by the devil. I got up and out by my own devices and moved on. As we approached town we hit a couple of miles of mud, so by the time I got to the albergue my boots and the legs of my pants were caked in mud.   

I ran right into the albergue, no searching necessary. The hospitalera welcomed me with a hug and besos. Her name is Pilar. She said, after I took my shower, she would do my laundry, gratis. It sounded great but, I thought, can I take a shower, do I have the much energy left, can she just throw me in the laundry with the clothes?" I did find the reserves to take a showere, gave her my clothes and took a little nap.   After my shower I went and had dinner of ensalada mixta, broiled, merlusa (fished), ensalada rusa (Spanish version of potato salad, café con leche and water. All for 7€. The albergue with breakfast is 12€. So I got meals for a day, a bed and laundry 19€, about $26. I didn't eat any lunch because I felt nauseous all day. Right after my last lost, I stopped and had an Aquarius (like a Gatorade. While I was ordering dinner a Finnish man who is staying at the same albergue, in fact we are roommates joined me, so I had someone to chat with during dinner. He had a glass of wine and asked if I wanted one. I said nobI don't drink. I think he thought I meant I don't drink wine, because he said, "you really miss a lot traveling through Spain, Italy and France if you don't like wine." I thought I'd miss a heck of a lot more if I did drink wine. I just told him if I drank a glass of wine I'd want ten more, or fall asleep on the table. We changed the subject.   Now I'm tucked in bed, not feeling so much like I had been beaten by a baseball bat. It's amazing how out of shape I can get in seven months, even with three or four walks on the beach every week. Oh well in a few days I'll be working back to tip top shape.   I would love to hear from all of you. What's up in your world?

So Here I Am?

Arrived in Seville in the afternoon and wandered around a bit with my backpack on trying to get my bearings. I finally figured out how to get to the metro station and then followed the directions to the Triana Backpackers hostel. Seville looks different than it did last year, everyone is walking around in their Sunday best. Oh yeah, it is Semana Santa (Easter Week.) in Spain it is not Spring Break, but a week of religious pageantry. Even though only about ten per cent of the country are practicing Catholics. I suppose Italy be like like in the US where a lot of folks fill the churches on Christmas and Easter.  Except in Spain, as far as I can tell, the only church is the Catholic Church.  I'm not going to go onto the history of how that happened, but if you are curious, the history of the Iberion Pennisula is a good read. 

I had heard that Semana Santa in Seville is incredible. Apparently a lot of other people heard that too, because the place is packed. Of course I arrived on the Thursday before Easter, which I think is the day of the Crucifictiion. Good Friday is the day Christians commemorate the Crucifiction. In Seville this is done with processions happening all night Thursday and a holiday on Good Friday. Almost everything except restaurants and bars is shut down. I suppose it's like that in most of Spain, a country where stores and businesses are still closed on Sundays and other Christian holidays. 

This morning I went out in search of café con leche and was blocked from getting back to my hostel because the Children's procession was queuing up in Triana. So I stood and watched for two hours  it had been my favorite procession in Salamanca two years ago. It was a little different here. Big and little kids and adults walked in this procession. and the kids walking had candies to hand out to the smaller kids watching the procession. It reminded me of trick or treating except the recipients stayed in one place and the givers moved along. 

After, I was done I went back and went to sleep. I haven't been able to stay awake much since I arrived in Spain. I was wondering how I managed in the last two years, then I remembered that the first year My daughter, Leea, and I traveled to Morocco, Istanbul, and Barcelona for three weeks before I started the Camino. Last year I worked in the Pilgrim's Office in Santiago for two weeks before I went to Saint Jean to start the Camino. So I'm just going to rest until it is time for me to start walking on Monday or Tuesday. 

One of my roommates here at the hostel is Ana. She is from Uruguay and dances flamenco. She is leaving tomorrow for Barcelona she is about 5'8", thin with shoulder length shining black hair and a sweet warm smile. There are also two Asian girls in our room but they don't talk much, even to each other. Another person is Lynn from Colorado. She goes to school at Colorado State in Fort Lewis. She is in her last year and has finished all of her course work so she is traveling for two months. From here she is going to Granada, lucky girl. I gave her some suggestions of things to see and do. 

I walked around the city today. I have been here in the summer and in the fall, but I have never seen it as packed as it is now. I'll be curious to see if the crowds thin on Monday, but I think there is a large feria that begins on Monday. Oh well, I'll have lots of alone time once O start walking. 

Arrival, Departure, Arrival and The Time In Between

From Dallas I caught my flight to Madrid without incident. It was on this flight that I met Oscar. Yes, Trish, his name was Oscar, like our favorite octopus. Oscar lives in Madrid. His office is in London, and his wife lives in Paris. He was sitting next to me and after I watched the movie, Nebraska, we got to chatting. We discussed work, retirement, our children, and life transitions. He is at the point I was about 15 years ago, tired of working and trying to figure out retirement. We shared pictures of our kids and discussed art work. He showed me a picture of a painting he had done. Very impressive. There were many similarities in our lives, including having red walls in our houses. We had lots of time to talk. It was a nine hour flight. I watched a movie for two hours and napped for two hours, so we must have spent four or five hours chatting. 

He was really an interesting person. He went to high school in the US on a study abroad program. Later he did his bachelor degree in the US and got a masters in engineering at Georgia Tech. His English was excellent. He said my Spanish pronunciation was very good. I didn't try speaking Spanish to him, because he spoke excellent English, and I'm lazy. :) He was having a company car service pick him up at the airport and offered me a ride to my hotel. What a treat. I normally take the Metro. He bought me a bocadilla, jamon y queso, (sandwich, ham and cheese) and a bottle of water before we got in the car. He was a kind and generous man. We exchanged contact information. 

As we were driving into the center of Madrid, preparations were being made for a big celebration if Real Madrid won the King's Cup that night against their arch rival, Barcelona. I told him my daughter Leea and I were in Madrid in 2012 when Spain won the Euro Cup and it was quite a riotous celebration. We decided that perhaps my presence in the city brought Real Madrid luck. He pointed to a statue with a temporary ramp leading up to it's head. He explained that if Real Madrid won the fútbol match they would carry a scarf up to the statue and tie the scarf around it's neck. I think this match determines which team represents Spain in the World Cup. 

After he dropped me at my hotel and I checked in, I went out to run some errands before I went to sleep. I went to the Correos (post office) and mailed a few things to Santiago for use there during my volunteer time as an Amiga. After the Correos, I went to the phone stores. Movistar still wouldn't sell me a SIM card for the iPhone 5 without a contract, so I went to Orange and got a SIM card with 1 gig of memory for 10€ a month plus cheap phone calls. By this time, I had been awake for about 25 hours, my errands completed, I went back to hotel and slept for four hours. 

After my nap I met up with my friend Liz, her husband, Frank; and their friend Nick. We walked around and then had dinner al fresco on the Plaza Mayor. The restaurant made an excellent café con leche! It was a lovely relaxed time with tales if cockroaches and Caminos. On the way back to our hotel after dinner we heard the sounds of celebration from the bars because Real Madrid was up 1-0 over Barcelona. Off the Puerta del Sol we saw a procession with the the Virgen Mary on the float. After we got back to the hotel, we went up to the roof terrace to watch the full moon rising over Madrid. My goodness it was stunning!

Later in my room, I could tell that I had brought luck to Real Madrid once again as the victory screams rose through the air. Real Madrid won 2-1. The Spanish know how to throw a party. There was music, dancing and parades of happy people until about 5am. I fell asleep about 1:30am.  I slept until 9am. Yawn. First priority was café con leche, of course. I went downstairs and had a café con leche, of sorts, meaning expresso, hot water, hot milk and sugar compiled by yours truly. Liz, Frank. and nick were there, so I sat down and chatted with them and then it was time to say our final good byes. I made me another café and went upstairs to pack. 

I left for the train station about 10:30am. It's about a ten minute Metro ride from where I was staying. Did I mention that the hotel I usually stay at in Madrid is on a major "hooker" street. Leea and I used to joke that they were waiting for a bus, funnier since the street is blocked to vehicular traffic. They seem nice, the hookers that is. They chat amongst themselves. They are not nearly as annoying as the guys buying gold. Hey, everybody has to make a living.  There's probably a hundred of them on the three blocks between Gran Via and Puerta del Sol. I got comments and concerns from Oscar and the car driver and Liz said they got comments from their taxi driver, but I've never felt any danger there.  

I got to the train station, showed my ticket and went through the luggage check. I decided to wait and eat on the train. So I found a seat and started writing this message. About fifteen minutes before the train was scheduled to leave they announced the gate number. I started walking to the gate, reaching in my pocket to get my ticket out again. YIKES!! It wasn't there. Relax I told myself, you must have put it in your coin purse so it wouldn't fall out. Nope, not there. I frantically searched everything once, twice, panic rising in my throat. I found one not too far from my Gate, but now it's twelve minutes before the train leaves and the sole person working this counter is helping a family. So I look on my phone for my ticket confirmation with the locator number. I find it. Another woman steps up to help me. Shockingly, in less than a minute she has issued me a new ticket and I am headed for the gate to board the train. 

I had a relaxing train ride and arrived in Seville in less than two hours. It was 86 degrees when I arrived. After a short walk a Metro ride and another short walk I arrived at the hostel where I will be staying for a few days. I was going to start walking on Monday, but it is supposed (90% chance) to rain Sunday and Monday. So depending on how much rain there is, I may stay until Tuesday or I may just start in the rain. Somehow, once I'm started, rain doesn't seem like a big deal, but starting in it seems monumental. I don't know why, it just does. 

Another Grand Adventure

I have been a little spacey the last week and packing was a challenge. So I decided to check everything two or three times, made lists, checked lists, checked pack. Last night I had some lovely women over for a potluck and lots of warm hugs. Then I checked everything one more time. I still wasn't excited about my trip when I woke up this morning. I talked with my husband John, this morning as he drove me to the airport. I was wondering if maybe some intuition was telling me not to go. 

Well we got to the airport, said our good byes, hugged, and kissed. You all know the deal. So I went in, checked my pack and went to the United Club room to have some breakfast. Shortly after I sit down with my yogurt and coffee, I plug in my phone so I will have a full charge for the flight. YIKES!! I have the wrong charger cord. For those of you who know me, you know I read on my phone, write on my phone, get directions on my phone, etc. I have a second charger cord but it is in my backpack, which I have checked. I sit there imagining me running out through security, down to check on and begging them to retrieve my checked bag so I can get my other phone charger. I dismiss this idea, believing that even if I don't end up in interrogation as a suspect traveler or a person needing psychiatric care, I would certainly lose my TSA Pre Pass. 

So my thoughts turn to conserving the charge. Which would involve reading every line of the In Flight magazine and chewing my fingers to tiny nubs. My next thought is that there must be other travelers who forget their charger cords or bring the wrong one. So I go to the desk and ask if there is any place in this rather small airport. Why yes there is one, a Brookstone store, and it is right downstairs. Minutes later I am back in the club clutching my little phone charger cord as if it were A precious item. 

Strangely enough, I became suddenly excited about my Camino. How does that happen? I have no idea. So I sit and happily read, secure in the knowledge that my phone is fully charged. 

When it's time, I go to the gate and stand waiting to board my flight. A woman comes up and asks me, in very broken English, if this is the place for the flight to Dallas. I say yes, pleased to be able to be helpful as I remember some of the countless times people were helpful to me when I didn't speak the language well of whatever country I was in at the time. Then a woman, an airport employee, came up and started asking me about the Camino and the movie, The Way.. We chatted about for a few minutes and she went back to work. I thought to myself, "How did she know I was a pilgrim?" I'm just on the first leg of my flight going from Orange County to Dallas. I don't have my backpack, it is checked. I have no patches or other identifying items, other than my small necklace, a gift from a sweet friend, that says, "Not all who wander are lost." I still don't know how she knew, but am comfortable with the idea that I must look like a Pilgrim. 

I'm in the air, on the way to Dallas, and excited to be on a grand adventure!

Another Day, Another Journey

Well it is Tax Day, my Day of Departure. My flight leaves this morning and soon I will be on my way to the airport. I have traveled to Spain for extended visits five times. I am usually giddy with excitement for about a week before I leave. This time, not so much. Possibly this is due to the fact that less than two weeks ago I was in the hospital for three days, was home one day, flew to Saint Louis for The Gathering of APOC for four days, came home, and spent the last week packing and taking care of final details before leaving the country for ten weeks. Or it could be the upper respiratory congestion I have had for about three months. Or, horrors, it could be that traveling and/or the Camino is getting old. Let us pray it is not the last.

     I am flying into Madrid, spending the night there and visiting a friend from the United States who is going to walk the Camino Frances. On Thursday I will take the train to Seville, in Southern Spain. I will be there for four or five days of Semana Santa, a week of Easter festivities, then I will begin my journey on the Camino Via de la Plata. I have been told the wild flowers are glorious on the Via de la Plata this time of year, so I am looking forward to a colorful journey. I am also told that this is a less traveled Camino than the Frances, so I will be spending a lot of time alone. I still hoping to meet people and make new friends.

More later from the airport.

How Am I ever Going To Do This?

It is Wednesday night. I leave for Madrid next Tuesday morning. So, while filling out a form to get TSA Pre Pass, I needed to put in my passport number and expiration date. I go to get my passport, and I can’t find it. I look where it is supposed to be. Not there. I look in all the places I think it might be. No luck. I start looking everywhere. Nada. Nothing. I was getting panicky, ready to go on the State Department site and see how long it would take to get a replacement. After an hour I finally find it and think to myself, “How am I ever going to do this?” I’ve done two Caminos, but my mind seems more scrambled this time. Did I mention I was in the hospital week end before last, got out of the hospital on Monday, experienced disturbing earthquakes on monday and Tuesday, packed on Tuesday, and flew out at 7 am on Wednesday to Saint Louis for The Gathering of the American Pilgrims On the Camino, spent a busy week end at the Gathering with two tornado warnings and flew home flew home, sleep deprived on Sunday. I’ve been cramming in last minute dentist, doctor and chiropractor appointments to see if all systems are go for this Camino. Oh and did I mention I lost the keys to my car in CVS this morning. Geesh!

Everything and then some that I am going to take is on the bed in my guest room, except of course, the things haven’t remembered yet. A spread sheet would probably help right now, at least it would be a packing list. Oh well, I will get where I m supposed to be, when I get there. It may not be where I want to be and I may not be in the shape I want to be when I get there; but I will get where I am supposed to be.

I believe that not only does the adventure continue after you return from an adventure, it starts before you leave for the adventure. I think this means that living is one continuous adventure.  

The Gathering of American Pilgrims On the Camino

Well this is the weekend for The Gathering of the American Pilgrims on the Camino. Last year I went to my first Gathering in Santa Barbara, California this year it is in Belleville, Illinois. I ended up in the emergency room last Friday , then stayed in the hospital until Monday afternoon so they could do tests. I went home Monday afternoon, packed on Tuesday and took a 6:45 am flight To Saint Louis, Missouri, by way of Minneapolis, Minnesota, on Wednesday. It seemed longer than most flights. I think, just maybe, I was tired. When I got off the plane in Saint Louis an airplane employee asked me I I needed a wheel chair. lol So I must have looked pretty awful.

I took the Metro Link right out of the airport across the river to Belleville. A couple of nice Pilgrims picked me up at the Metro station and took me to the site of The Gathering, then invited me to join them for dinner. Two other pilgrims joined us for dinner. After dinner I came back to th hotel to watch the first few innings of the Dodger game on mlb.tv. They won. Go Dodgers. I got to sleep about 11 pm and was startled awake out of a comatose sleep by someone knocking on the door and saying something about a tornado. My brain was not awake yet. I thought, tornado? We don’t have tornados. Then my brain woke up enough to realize I was not in California. Again I heard “tornado” and “get downstairs.” I still had trouble processing this information until it realized where it was waking up. Then as the knocking continued I heard, “There is a tornado warning and you need to get downstairs. I was like, YIKES! I scrambled out of my room in my pajamas after grabbing my iPhone and Buddha Bear. ,Apparently there had been a siren which did not wake me up.  I was thinking, last week we had an earthquake at home and tornado this week I’m in a tornado. How exciting.” I spent about forty five minutes in the men’s room chatting with old and new Camino friends and one dog, who was very friendly and licked my face. I think he was trying to comfort me.

By the time it was all over, the hotel breakfast was all set up, so I just stayed there in my jammies, ate yogurt and waffles, drank coffee and visited with some more old and new friends.

I spent the day taking pictures and enjoying the company of some really delightful people. I also got to listen to a great number of great presentations. We had another tornado warning in the evening, just after dinner. we had to all go stand in a hallway behind the dining. the wine was past around and everyone chatted until we got the all clear notice.

The rest of the week end was packed with amazing speakers, entertainment (including a fantastic flamenco guitarist on Thursday night who had played for President Obama at the White House. Friday night we were treated to 5X5 pilgrim’s story, some very funny  and others truly touching. Following the 5x5 there was a viewing of the documentary “Walking the Camino: Six Ways to Santiago. I had seen it at the Newport Film Festival, but thoroughly enjoyed it once again. A favorite presentation was Camino Dulces (Sweets) which included generous samples and recipes. Yosmar and Wanda worked very hard preparing these Camino yummies. 

Saturday evening I attended the Shell Ceremony, where the pilgrims who are doing their first Camino this year are presented with a scallop shell for their back packs in a very touching ceremony. I ran around hugging them afterwards and chatting about when they were starting their Caminos and answering questions. It was great fun. After the shell ceremony and dinner we had a Cabaret where t Pilgrims shred their talents with us. I was astounded by the incredible talent these pilgrims had. There was great gospel music, a native american flute, a funny skit and video, readings of poetry and lots of singing. It was very entertaining.

Oh yeah, I also won three raffle prizes! That never, ever happens. By Sunday I was like the walking dead I was so exhausted. I took the MetroLink back to the airport and had an uneventful flight home. I am so grateful I was able to participate in this wondrous week end.

Now I’m getting packed and ready to leave in a week for Spain and a stroll down the Via de la Plate (the Silver Camino) from Seville to Santiago. Lots more on that in the next month or two. Stay tuned.