April 23 The Body Threatens To Revolt
Today the body suddenly stopped and said, "WHOA!! Not this again! What do you think you are doing? Can we put this to a vote. Don't you realize how old we muscles and tendons are? We each should get a vote." Then the toes piped in with, hey what about us we have to keep you balanced on all those rocky trails and that makes the job. Not to mention our nails get banged around, play dead and jump ship. We get a vote too." So the body is in full mutiny. The knee and the back are quiet. Al they said is, "we hurt all the time anyway, so who cares?" I tell them what I tell them every year, that it's only the first few days that are difficult and then we all feel better and enjoy the journey." They don't seem to believe me. What short memories they have.
Today started out like any other day, I got lost several times before getting out of the pueblo that is about three blocks wide and five blocks long. Doesn't sound like it would be that hard to find your way out. In my defense, the arrows in this pueblo and Camas are really poorly done. There must be some political pressure about where they can and cannot place the arrows. This must happen a lot because the residents were very helpful. Every time they saw me going the wrong way or just stand looking incredibly dumb. The would start waving their arms to indicate where I should go and giving verbal instructions, which I probably could have understood had I heard them, but I kept forgetting to take my ear plugs out. They would waive their arms indicating "go straight" and they were probably saying "derecho y luego a la derecha" having not heard them I would yell back, "derecho y luego a la derecha?" They must have thought I was hard of hearing or very stupid or both. But they were very nice and helpful, like you would be with someone who is mentally challenged.
So I got out of the pueblo and found that the Camino was along the highway. This was not like a senda or separate walking trail running along side the highway. This was walking on the thin strip of asphalt left over after they measure and line the lanes, varying in width from three to ten inches wide. They traffic was moving at a fairly good clip, including cars and trucks and some big rigs. There was traffic coming the other way on this two lane highway, so they were often faced with the choice, hit the stupid woman walking on the road or hit another car or truck. I don't want to know what their answer was. I got stopped last year by the policia for doing something a whole lot less dangerous, walking beside a freeway on a stretch of dirt about six feet wide. Today I thought where are the policia when you need them. I would love a ride out of here.
I was so deep in thought trying not to get smushed that I almost missed my turn. But two kind men, one from the gas station and one from some sort of industrial enterprise across the street started waiving their arms. Since they were both waiving the same direction, I figured they knew the way, even though where they were directing me was to a road behind the gas station and several industrial buildings. It turns out that this road led to a trail that is part of an athletic area sponsored by four or five pueblos including the one I just left and the one I'm headed to. It included an amazing trail for hiking and off road biking. It was luscious with flowers, trees and plants; vistas beyond words! Sat down once to fix a blister and once to eat a granola bar for lunch. I saw bunny rabbits, long sleek ones scampering across fields. And in one area there were several pastures of huge brown and white cows. Though there was mud, some challenging areas of wash outs, and it seemed like most of it was uphill; it truly was a lovely hike.
During the entire 12 mile journey today I saw seven pilgrims and a couple of recreational bikers. In this town there is only one albergue. It is donativo, which means you pay what you can. If you have very little money, then you don't pay. There are 28 beds here and only 12 pilgrims. It is a nice place, and the Hospitalero, Manolo, is terrific. He's really friendly and goes out of his way to be helpful. He's a volunteer through the Spanish organization that placed me in Bercianos last year. He has been a Hospitalero at Grañon and El Burgo Ranero also. He certainly has the knack for it.
I was thinking all day how I would like to skip the first part of the walk tomorrow. The total walk is about 18 miles and the first 10 of it is on the highway. After the highway there is a hike through a National park and then a nasty 200 meter climb at the end. I don't like walking on the highway. There is little to see and it is scary. And I think an 8 mile hike with a nasty 200 meter climb is enough for anyone. All my body parts agree. I didn't say anything to anyone, I was just thinking, oh well, I'll just do it. Then when I came back from dinner, Manolo asked if I wanted to take a taxi for the first part. I said, "Sure, is that possible?" He introduced me to a German couple for whom he had already arranged the cab and they were looking for two more riders. I signed up. It is funny how things work like that. The only drawback is they are leaving at 7:30, so I won't be able to have café con leche and tostada con mermelada, as I had planned because the bar across the way doesn't open until 8. Oh well, you can't have everything.
It was so nice to hear from so many of you yesterday. It really helps me more than you will ever know.
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