Lessons

Part Three: If you haven’t read the first two parts of this story, it is on my blog at 

http://nancy7484.blogspot.com/

During my second Camino. I started noticing the hospitaleros and how they welcomed the pilgrims. When people say they love this or that albergue, I used to wonder wonder why. From my observations I came to believe that a large part of my feeling about an albergue results from the welcoming of the hospitaleros. Some of the most physically challenging (big, crowded, mats on the floor, old showers, etc) were some of my favorites because the hospitaleros greeted me as though they were glad to see me and had just been waiting for me to arrive. I felt welcome. They were kind and caring. Even Boadilla del Camino with it’s grass and swimming pool was special because of the spirit of the hospitaleros that worked there. I wanted to be that kind of hospitalera. On the other hand some hospitaleros were like clerks at the DMV, just doing the job. they weren’t mean or nasty, just not all that interested. 

I stopped in Burgos for a rest day in a room with a view of the Cathedral. I am so glad I did. I love Burgos! It has art everywhere and the cathedral just blew me away. They also had a yummy breakfast at the hotel. I did get lonely in the hotel room. I love the albergues. By comparison a hotel room is a little dull. While in Burgos I got to meet Kathryn, the wife of Michael a man I met on the Camino. they actually live twenty minutes from my home and Michael works in the same industry I worked in for twenty five years and knows some of the same people. Kathryn had flown in to meet him. We had dinner together and shared some stories and laughs. Because Michael was having problems with his legs swelling, they continued the Camino on bicycles. I saw them again between Bercianos and El Burgo Ranero along the Senda. We took pictures of one another and said our good byes again.

I continued to Leon, where I took another rest day before heading back to Bercianos to serve as a hospitalera. I stayed at the Parador as a treat to myself. It was large and old, the rooms were ordinary, but they had the most incredible breakfast buffet I have ever experienced any where in the world. Yummy! The walk along the river adjacent the hotel was lovely. After two nights at the hotel I headed to Bercianos to begin my time as a hospital era. I was so excited to be able to do this.

I got to Bercianos a day early because in training they suggested we have a full twenty four hour experience with the hospitaleros that were leaving before we began our turn. It was very instructive and the hospitaleros were very helpful to me. The hospitaleros that were going to serve with me didn’t show up until the late afternoon before our time was to begin. For awhile I thought I was going to end up there by myself. Yikes! My fellow hositaleros were two Spanish women who spoke absolutely no English. My Spanish is very basic, but I can usually make myself understood if someone has the patience to listen carefully. These ladies did not. And since they had each other to talk to, Iwas the odd man out, or at least that is how it felt. they discussed things between themselves, made decisions, and took charge.

My bubble was burst, my balloon lost all it’s air and I freaked, quietly of course. I was assigned some cleaning to do the next day, and they went upstairs and changed the sheets and cleaned. I was alone downstairs. Poor little me. I was very upset. I didn’t know what to do. I wanted to run, but I didn’t want to run. It seemed like they were bossing me around. It was a very rocky start. The pilgrims that came that day mostly spoke English and no Spanish, so they assigned me to work at the front desk. I think that was a saving grace. The pilgrims were great and we laughed and had a good time. They counted the money in the donation box and cooked dinner. At some point I think they realized that having a person who spoke English and some Spanish was useful because a lot of pilgrims could communicate in at least one of those languages.

I almost cried myself to sleep that first night. The experience I was so excited about was turning into a disaster. And then as I was going to sleep one of the hospitaleras said, “Buenos noches” Somehow that little gesture made a big difference. By the next day things were a little better. I think on that first day we were all coming into a new experience and wanted to do a good job. Slowly we started to communicate. They learned to listen a little bit longer to pick up my admittedly poor Spanish. I tried to just do what they wanted me to do and not try to make decisions. After a day or two, they started asking my opinion on things and including me in the decision making. We started sharing stories, jokes and laughter. I saw that they really wanted to make the pilgrims feel at home. One of them got a drip coffee things she could make real coffee for the pilgrims for breakfast and not just set out the instant. the other one decided to toast the bread instead of just slicing it and serving it cold. 

We bonded around helping the pilgrims and being pilgrims ourselves. By the end of our term in Bercianos we were friends and are still in contact. they both welcomed me to stay with them when I come to Spain. One of them gave me a ride to Leon where I continued my pilgrimage. I am so glad I didn’t run from the difficulties.

The Camino, like life seems to provide what I need, including lessons I need to learn. If I relax and stay on the Camino, I will get to learn the lessons. This is a gift.