The day was clear skies and sunny. I was in short sleeves within a half hour of leaving the Albergue this morning. I didn't even get lost, because those two kind gents showed me the way out yesterday. :) it was warm all day very pleasant and I started out with a spring in my step. I think I'm finally getting stronger. Today's 13 miles were easier than yesterday's thirteen miles.
However, imagine my chagrin Fuente de Cantos and Pueblo de Sancho Peréz there was a river running across the middle of the path. There were rocks placed to walk on , but they were all submerged deep under the water. I thought, "What does one do?" While pondering this question I saw a path through high, old cornstalks and other vegetation. So I followed it and found rocks across the water leading to a mud embankment about three feet high. I thought, "What the heck, in for a penny in for a pound. So I started across the rocks. Now walking across rocks in the water is difficult for anyone, it is scary for someone nicknamed "Tilty." I have peripheral neuropathy, something nerves not sending messages fast enough, like I don't have enough ram or bars on my wifi. This causes me to veer off course or in some situations to topple. Not good for trying to balance on rocks over water.
But, with the help of my trusty poles I made it across the rocks to the mud embankment. I tried to put my foot up, to step up the embankment, but realized it was too high, and with the pack on, an attempt would probably result in me tipping over backwards, landing on my back on my pack on the rocks and in the water flopping about like a turned over turtle. So, I decided this was going to be a knee up pull myself up onto my stomach maneuver. I got up and then I wasn't sure if I could get to my feet with my pack on this small slippery mud bank. Or should I take the pack off and run the risk of it falling in the water. I didn't think it would be as dramatic as the scene in the movie The Way where Martin Sheen's pack falls into a fast moving deep river. I did know if I got off balance with the pack on, both I and the pack could get wet, or worse, I could get injured. I tried it with the pack on and did get up without major mishap. There were some tense moments when I started to go off balance, my poles saved the day.
Once I was up I realized I was only half way around the water and the part in front of me was even deeper. So I walked again through the tall vegetation only to find out, after sinking ankle deep in mud a couple of times, that trail went no where. So I started back pondering whether I wanted to walk in the water barefoot or leave my boots on and walk the rest of the way in soggy boots. I hadn't decided when I got back to the mud bank. I got closer to try and see how deep the water was and I saw some rocks and a log. I was grateful and once more did the tightrope walk across the rocks. One was a little tippy and I almost went flying, but I stepped quickly, instinctively to to next rock and it steady.
It was scary and tense but I was glad that I survived with only muddy and slightly wet boots. I was not pleased to have to go through the same drama about two miles further on. This is probably one of the things I wouldn't encounter in the early summer. But I also wouldn't get to see the waving wheat along the trail.
Further on I encountered the first limping pilgrim on this Camino. I hadn't seen the man before, so I was wondering if he started behind me. I hope he made it to the pueblo and was able to tend to his hurts. I started running out of water early, so I had to ration it for the last two hours. I got into Pueblo de Sancho Peréz and started following the signs to the albergue. After I walked about a half a mile I thought something was wrong and I was going in the wrong direction. So I walked back to the center of town. I couldn't find any yellow arrows or the tourist office. So again I saw the City Hall. I went in and ask a man, working at his desk, if he knew where the albergue was and he said it was closed and that I would have to go on to Zafra, about two and a half miles further. Doable, but not desirable. He started doing something at has computer and the asked one of the women to call. Turns out the albergue is not closed. So I walk about a half a mile back in the direction I came from. But if I hadn't stopped and been told it was there, I never would have found it.
As I walked, I felt like I was walking out of town, because I was. The albergue is in a Ermitas, which I guess is like a chapel translated from Spanish. I think it's a place pray, not where services are performed. I arrived and there was no on around and no signs saying albergue or anything. But just then a woman drove up, got out of her car and greeted me, as if she was expecting me. Which she was, because of the phone call from City Hall. It turns out there are no other pilgrims staying this albergue, which isn't surprising given it's location and the lack of a Hospitalero during the hours most pilgrims arrive, The hospitalera is at lunch until 4pm. It's Spain. So this hospitalera has driven over from Zafra to sign me in. However, she doesn't think it is best for me to stay there and suggests that she drive me over to Zafra to their sister albergue. I agree with this plan. We chat in Spanish on the way. I think I'm getting better.
She brings me to the albergue in Zafra which is in an old convent. It is very nice. I'm in a room with a Austrian woman who speaks no English. In fact there no English speaking on the part I'm on right now. There aren't any who even speak it as a second language. I knew I would be alone during the day, because I want to walk alone. But I was hoping to meet people in the albergues at the end of the day. I guess I'm supposed to have some alone time. Pekka and Paul are the only two I've met who speak English fluently. Paul was on a bicycle, so I only saw him one day. I haven't see Pekka for a few days. I think he did two stages in one day and is ahead of me now. I'm sure I will run into some more English speakers. I have spoken a little to some Spanish speaking people.
I took my shower, washed my laundry, ate some cheese and drank some water. Now I thinking of sleep. Please write some comments if you have a moment. 
I continue to look forward to your blogs each day. Wow you are doing well! My start is getting closer, less than 2 weeks now. My Spanish is very basic but I speak German and French so I hope I can manage without any major problems.
ReplyDeleteBuen Camino!